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On June 12, 2026, I received a call from Cornell U On June 12, 2026, I received a call from Cornell University explaining that years ago what could be called my “Archives” were in their possession. Almost 700 garments— both Haute Couture and Ready to Wear, more than 8000 sketches, over 3500 patterns, including special made to order items from Elsa, Patti Smith, Elizabeth Taylor, Lee R, Andre, and individual clients that would prefer privacy: 400, 350, 280, 115…… and more of this nature— I forgot because we were constantly working, but to conceive that individual clients, friends, extremely devoted patrons dressed with us.. is outstanding. And the reality of ordering this amount of couture. Cornell is also in the possession of concept books, boxes of paper files, business plans, receipts, hundreds of research files that added to each season. Hand written trunk show sales that had fabric, lining, and trim consumptions that were all hand written by me…. before we had computers. When I left a town after a trunk show, I would make this work in airports, hotels, and during flights so that I could call my office in the morning and give them updates to add and order more of everything. You see I had no life….. fine, because the body of work that I was creating with my God Sent Staff of Artisans I knew had such significance. Cornell University spent many years including legal negotiations to catalogue, label, photograph, organize years- seasons- in order. This archive spans from 1978 to 2015. Imagine, I have not had my children to hold, speak to, listen to, and remind me of everything that we achieved in 45 years! This was not only Sensory Deprivation, but also an extreme destruction of my brain, confidence, and a total disconnect of the process—- taking dictation from a higher source to create and manifest….. I build from each previous season, and it was suddenly Gone…. Cornell built chic vitrines with glass facades painted in pearl gray flannel, each movable electronically by a button ….soon each vitrine will have the names of my artesian family members who created all of this —Tirelessly and with Extreme Pride and Humility, because they Knew that they were honored by the work. The Cornell staff worked constantly for
something very extra ordinary is about to unfold. something very extra ordinary is about to unfold. i have been waiting 13 years to tell all of you about it. x r
Queen Catroux still…… walks amongst us. Perhaps, V Queen Catroux still…… walks amongst us. Perhaps, Vampire but utterly inspiring and the zenith of divine.
my first job in nyc— 33 east 68 street. until this my first job in nyc— 33 east 68 street. until this day that magic, genius, culture, flu and speechlessness of floating bias chiffon and cashmere still remains with me. I think about him and elsa everyday, as they and the culture of the moment was@the wondrous moment in new york… it was royal, legendary, and magic!
happy birthday genius….. the cristobal of our gene happy birthday genius….. the cristobal of our generation. Honor Him.
The most divine, intense, respectful, and brutally The most divine, intense, respectful, and brutally honest fashion journalist, Ms. Bobbie Queen left us three weeks ago. My previous post commented on Ms. Etta Friorio leaving us. Both women were touchstones of brilliant observations and commentaries at WWD. The Fairchild publication that took a dark path in their commentary of designers, their collections, society women, and social status. I am sorry to say because the owner and publisher, John Fairchild, was more Dr. Frankenstein than Prophet. But Bobbie and Etta kept the professionalism and truth in fine direction. Bless them. Bobbie was my editor, and deep friend for decades, and I loved her.
Two most gracious and extraordinary women who assi Two most gracious and extraordinary women who assisted enormously in my transition from a designer within to a man who happens to attempt to apply artistic technique to my clients…since they had to explain it in journalism. Firstly, on the left the magnificent Etta Frioro who left this plane three weeks ago. A woman of kind, insightful, and graciously elegant journalistic position. She gave the Fairchild Publications a, shall we say a polish and grace. I adored her and her long time companion. They quietly brought the Comtesse Jacqueline de Ribes into my life, quietly….. without the “expected” fashion release. The other woman sitting next to Etta is the deeply investigative and original Ms . Bobbie Queen, my editor at WWD for many decades. Still here giving the profession an edge, a spark, and a great determination of separating the banal from the chilling. At times I argued with her, but she taught me the essential necessity of one voice in self and work…. Adore them both and have been feeling the great loss of Etta from our dimension.
The Dauphin taking sun before lunch and a beauty s The Dauphin taking sun before lunch and a beauty shower, on his new favorite chaise from his beloved best friend Jacek.
they can Never be us… remember. they can Never be us… remember.
Back to Normal? We introduced the “Suspension “ Te Back to Normal? We introduced the “Suspension “ Technique. Art work conceived by Larisa Rizhova, toile by the great Christine von Aesch. Haute Couture, Fall / Winter 2008…. I think. Taroni Parrot Green Double Faced Satin Duchess. The Jacket, Weskit, and Skirt— all individual pieces that are each had finished, and then “Worm Stitched” together. The jacket is the hen lined in Bargauzine Russian Sable. One of the greatest accompaniments that our atelier ever achieved. Besides the sample, two repeats were ordered. I send much love to those two cherished ladies!
NOW HEAR THIS…. THIS ITEM OF ELSA’S GENIUS ESCAPED NOW HEAR THIS…. THIS ITEM OF ELSA’S GENIUS ESCAPED ME. IT IS A ROCK CRYSTAL SALT AND PEPPER CELL WITH ONE CORAL SPOON AND ONE BLACK JADE SPOON…. Please address my insanity and obsession, and if anyone has this relic….. I will pay anything! DM ME, yes, this is a psychiatric plea! Now you know me and my attachment to Elsa.
And finally here we have the Rose…. in the phone f And finally here we have the Rose…. in the phone for a change, in her beloved town of Anzio, one hour outside of Rome, one the sea. Finally living a life of peace, with her partner Adel…. after taking care of everyone, now herself…. Happy Mother’s Day Angel! xr
Happy Mother’s Day My Dear Sister— Easter, 1960. F Happy Mother’s Day My Dear Sister— Easter, 1960. From left- Me in the plaid jacket that I never removed ( notice ears ),my cousin, Neil, My handsome father, Emanuel (32 here), holding my cousin’s dog— Jigger, Rosina sitting on my father’s knee in embroidered Swiss lace and satin faced cotton, with a totally Beverly Hillbillies hat, and my cousin John who just decided to leave the plane last week.
Happy Mother’s Day to my extraordinary, loving, de Happy Mother’s Day to my extraordinary, loving, deeply compassionate and Mother of renown dimensions. Here with her son, Luca on the evening in 2005 of my retrospective at The Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology. She never set laws, she merely suggested and what occurred was a wonderous personality and brilliance in Luca. Mother and Son grew up in Rome, and Rosina raised her son alone, with the utmost Italian humility, faith, and deep value of equality towards all… as only my sister has constantly conducts herself. I, especially now as we have aged use Rosina as a measure of perfection.xxx
Happy Birthday Angel! You left a massive emptiness Happy Birthday Angel! You left a massive emptiness in the world, but with your work, we remember and are continually inspired. But, most importantly, how you lived your life with one major objective…. to give and help others. especially your beloved Koala Bears. All of us speak of you constantly and can imagine the birthday party tonight. What are you receiving guests wearing? xxx. r
My Angel, Elise Crombez… whom I always called “Bab My Angel, Elise Crombez… whom I always called “Baby Pauline”, because I adored her and she gave the clothes a major twist of de Rothschild, but edge since she would arrive for her fittings in breath taking Helmut Lang future vision. Here in a degrade’ suspension jacket and skirt and scarf in colors of Ivory, Beige, Oyster, and Taupe Double Faced Cashmere. Once the silhouette and fit are established, then the artwork is drawn, then allof the parts are separated and seam allowance is added to the new pattern pieces…. then all of the parts are Individually double faced, and each part is hand lined with silk charmeuse. Then each mosaic is placed on a template and hand worm stitched so that you have a garment of complete kinetic transparency and weightlessness. I have never ceased using this technique because it is timeless and is screaming with couture quietude. Fall / Winter 2009 Haute Couture. Please note… what an out of this world atelier I was honored to have.
White Double Faced Wool Crepe with Horizontal and White Double Faced Wool Crepe with Horizontal and Vertical insets of Tulle. When a Blazer / Jacket turns into a moveable body suit…. an evolution from the 1954 Chanel Cardigan. My search for lightness was always through hand workmanship and transparencies. This from Spring Ready to Wear 2013.
More Pomodoro…. Ivory Double Faced Wool Crepe on T More Pomodoro…. Ivory Double Faced Wool Crepe on Tulle…. each fragmentation individually double faced and then suspended on a tulle base— WEIGHTLESSNESS….. by hand to show the delicious soft fragmentation of couture possibilities.
Spring 2002 Haute Couture, White Double Faced Wool Spring 2002 Haute Couture, White Double Faced Wool/Silk from Madame Gandini… This season I elongated all of her backs of jackets, coats, raincoats, dresses, and gowns….. and LOOPED them all back on themselves to form a poetic hydrodynamic three dimensional garment with power, elegance, and movement. I was so empowered by all of the exits and the entire collection was in white, ivory, and taupe. There were embroideries, but the most striking was a Lesage embroidered Twin Set in STRAW AND WOOD BEADS on the Divine Christina Kruse. The collection of all white / ivory was presented within the Cinnabar Marble halls of the Romanian Embassy. After the defile’ Lee R whispered words that I still carry in my heart: “It no longer matters what you will show, because what you have shown defines you.” Unfortunately WWD did not approve of the loop back technique, even though I have always deeply respected the journalist.
The Legend and Pillar of Strength, Carmen in an Iv The Legend and Pillar of Strength, Carmen in an Ivory Double Faced Wool Crepe and Tulle based on a two sculptures by Arnoldo Pomodoro in the home of Hubert de Givenchy…. one in the entry way on a console, the other on the terrace surrounded by rocks. I made this entire collection around Pomodoro…..the challenge mirrored my soul being in great, enormous duress from financial pressure when the floor fell from all of us in 2008….remember? I had 67 employees and did not reduce salary or allow anyone to leave. I just sold All of the Frances Bacons (3), the Cy Twomblys (11), and Tapies (5), that were purchased when we were flying high….. remember, no sorrow…. all is given to us to enjoy, and eventually all must go back into the world to enjoy!
An Ivory Suede one layer coat with small to large An Ivory Suede one layer coat with small to large circles stamped from the surface, so that the negative space is as important as the positive space. Spring Haute Couture 2009.
Spring 2004 Haute Couture. A blouse entirely hand Spring 2004 Haute Couture. A blouse entirely hand embroidered with fresh water pearls to suggest bones and nerves. I like pearls. Shown at an hotel particular on the Ave Foch. The collection was shown to the soundtrack of Angels In America by Thomas Newman. I think one of my three best collections.
If you are going to visit Paris now or during the If you are going to visit Paris now or during the Summer. There is a very lovely exhibit to visit. It will continue until July 12th, which will be the end of Fall / Winter 2096-7 Haute Couture. It is now mounted at the Palais Galeria. The exhibit is based on the evolution of 18th Century fashion and technique on contemporary haute couture. It even references two extraordinary occurrences: 1.) Sophia Coppola’s masterful depiction of the 18th Century court of Marie Antoinette, and 2.) Queen Madonna’s performance of Vogue in 18th Century Farthingales. I am very honored to be included in this exhibit with my “Watteau Infanta” in Black Gazaar, Satin Duchess, and Velvet dimensions. As the only American representing Couture, both my pride, history, and humility makes his dress a hallmark of my career. This Infanta was from the Fall / Winter 2019- 2020 Haute Couture Collection.
Happy 94th Birthday H. Thank you for my start, all Happy 94th Birthday H. Thank you for my start, all that you taught me, and the enormity that you brought to our metier and culture.
This is a quilted Chestnut Ski Parka in Silk Satin This is a quilted Chestnut Ski Parka in Silk Satin Damask shown in my Fall / Winter 2007 RTW- Haute Couture Collection in Paris at an 17th Century Monastery……what an evening. The ceilings were 30 ft high and the music— Thomas Newman allowed the audience to be lifted to another realm—- always my intention. While we were in hair and makeup, my dear friend and mentor, Hubert de Givenchy, took a walk with me on the rainy wet stone walk way around the abby. I was still smoking then, so as I was staring down looking at my handsome Lobb shoes and nicotine gaze, Hubert—- and his Goliath height placed his hand on my shoulder and in his very soft inflection told me : Not to worry, not to over think it, always Edit….. to reduce tithe essence. He had not seen the full collection yet. Then he told me the most essential life long message of my career….. “You are one of us”. I remained silent, because this was a life shattering moment, so we went inside, and I made sure that he, Monsieur Venet, and Mrs. Blair were seated comfortably, and I began the presentation, with the first exit being a braided black horse hair slit and shawl morphing into Gandini Black DF wool silk, and a pintucked circular under pinning in Colombo Silk / Cashmere Jersey. The ceiling came down and I took benediction. Now This Chestnut Silk Satin Damask is quilted on the other side with Cafe’ Heavy silk Organza……… so that you can see that all of the feathers that gave the quilting life were Multi- Colored and Magical! It was purchased by my friend, and great collector, Susan Gutfreund.
Simply makes life have uplifting inspiration, beca Simply makes life have uplifting inspiration, because my love for her never exceeded my mind’s extraordinary inspiration from her.
I had to delete the previous picture in this spot. I had to delete the previous picture in this spot. If you do not remember, it was someone depicting himself as Jesus. The photo that I have now posted is a very holy, visionary, humble, and deeply kind man walking amongst us. Essentially a teacher and an artist. His name is Julio Espada. He is going to be embarrassed, but for all of those that know him… know that he is an Angel!
Happy Easter Elsa Buddy! At her desk in the PH on Happy Easter Elsa Buddy! At her desk in the PH on East 55th Street, wearing the famous black velvet bunny ears by H. Miss you Bunny Buddy!
Here she is, captured in my favorite photograph… T Here she is, captured in my favorite photograph… The Great Fashion Editor, Rae Crespin. She just passed away last week , one week after her 100th birthday! This photo is so special as Rae insisted I take, shown here, the Paul Rudolf triplex at 25 Beekman. Rae lived downstairs in an equally wonderous Clockwork Orange duplex. Here Rae sits on the banquette on the first level looking up to the second and third level— as I am looking down at she demanding that I take the apartment because it would change my life! And she was right, but we went into Covid lockdown, and life change, but it was not in the cards for me. But, the lady had great vision. Bless John Calcagno for making sure that she was constantly taken care. Marilyn Kirschner just wrote an exquisite article on Rae in her-“Look On Line” column. Another legend has left us!
….. how blessed we are….. Happy Easter my friends. ….. how blessed we are….. Happy Easter my friends. x r
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