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Loved him deeply. A visionary has left us, but did Loved him deeply. A visionary has left us, but did we laugh, no— scream!
In 2010 I decided to show my Fall / Winter Ready t In 2010 I decided to show my Fall / Winter Ready to Wear and Couture together, but in my huge 12,000. Sq ft mirrored showroom, at night— 9 pm— and all invited were asked to dress in black tie. Of course, they devoured this. That morning - day- into night as I was finishing fittings at break neck speed, all of the workers were laying white high gloss vinyl on the floor, setting lighting, sound, chairs, and squeezing me out with much anxiety, because as everyone who knows me—- knows—- it’s not perfect, until I say it’s perfect. I have NEVER worked with a stylist of influencer—- the absurdity of it all, because I am still, until the last moment taking dictation from a higher realm. So that evening there was a massive snow storm…. My staff had so much fun because they were all T COUTURE CAMP! We took close hotel rooms for them and made the finishing touches of the collection a festive party. If I may say, this was a very channeled collection where technique and flou met the wonder as if no hands had ever touched the clothes….. a very private direction that Hubert de Givenchy taught me. So I knew what was about to be shown, I knew the extraordinary range of the audience, and in selecting the music I had to: 1.) Make it dreamy 2.) Relate it to a woman who would be wearing white construction boots—- Patti Smith. 3.) Allow the nuances of Francis Bacon, the blur of Taroni silk moire, Respect to Elsa’s biomorphic cutting, a homage to curved, narrow concave- convex Charles James like principles in DAY CLOTHES, not ball gowns. Finally they were all seated, hair— makeup — dressing was complete. I took a peep and when I saw Mrs . Deeda Blair deep in conversation with Nick Ashford, and Mrs. Susan Gutfreund telling Patti Smith how they were born in the same hospital……,.,,…. The stars were aligned and I gave the go to start. The music went up, into the trance of Jefferson Airplane—- Grace Slick’s WHITE. RABBIT. Everyone was already high, and the drug of the evening, in honesty, was the memory of letting yourself go to a level of awareness and ascension that life prevents. The next day in the New York Times, my Angel- friend and prophetic critic—- Cathy Horyn said….
Royalty, grace, refinement, strength, the discreet Royalty, grace, refinement, strength, the discreet representation of martyrdom, for all of us… this is a gargantuan task and responsibility, and in essence, this is why WOMEN give MEN the Rite de Passage into this life.
In 1975, something incredible happened. Mrs. Diana In 1975, something incredible happened. Mrs. Diana Vreeland smashed opened the doors downstairs at the Metropolitian Museum of Art. She had been fired from Vogue because her visions and point of view were so out there in terms of connecting conceptual thought to style….. through inspiration. The straw that broke the camel’s back was a shoot in The Himalayas. She sent Polly Mellon, Richard Avedon, Veruska, Ara Gallant, and a team of those on the same wave length. It was a fur shoot…. Impossible in its dimensions of beauty and languor. She went to Emeric Partos— the great couture fur designer at Bergdorf Goodman, Adolfo, Halston, Chester Weinberg….. you get it, “her boys”. The furs, toques, black plastic and white ermines, The Sables!!!!! Manifested through Tibet. This was the most extraordinary and spellbinding fashion- cultural- historical spread ever conceived. It would be conservative to say that it was the most expensive and extravagant ever at Vogue. To this day it is the touchstone. Wonder abound… Vreeland’s fate was sealed for history, and she was fired. Thus, one year later…. 1975…. She mounted the first Met Ball…. The REAL thing, not a cheap publicity stunt as it has become. The exhibit: THE WORLD OF BALENCIAGA…. When you went downstairs, the first mannequin was this image… Pauline de Rothschild in a tiered lace and tulle coat with white satin Capri pants…. And the V sprayed the rooms with his fragrance, Quadrille. This was our reality.
My…. Couture of the throat. Heaven transport… My…. Couture of the throat. Heaven transport… Ricotta Canolli with dried orange rind. You do realize that you can conquer the world by offering this to others?
Fall 2010. This was ready to wear, because the cha Fall 2010. This was ready to wear, because the challenge was a spiritual manifestation. Toile from the great Christine Von Aesch, art director: Larisa Ryzhova, technical force… Hercilia, Derli, Halina. I have always been surrounded by the hands of Angels. And, yes, this is hidden somewhere with my Archives. So, I constantly send them love and Daddy’s comfort.
This is an association from the past. One of Mongi This is an association from the past. One of Mongiardino’s last projects was the palace in Hamburg? Frankfurt ? For the genius, Jil Sander. Now like Elsa, I was shocked that these two women of profound minimalist outlook would be drawn towards this magician of historical based period interiors. I became obsessed with studying all of Elsa’s homes, and then Ms. Sander’s. For Sander he literally installed an 18th Century Piedmontese puppet coral and gold leaf room with sofas covered in the original gold embroidered textile….. imagine! At Jil Sander amidst all of her Twombly’s. Elsa is so powerful that he tempered everything with a Japanese and Chinoiserie effect and she floated within. Now, this image that I want you to view is a section from a Renaissance painting. The one perfect egg hanging on a delicate string. Mongiardino went to his Surrealist artist and commissioned 9 paintings in thick Chiaroscuro oil in black, cinnabar, and gold—- haunting. They were planned for her formal dining room. She argued with him, felt they were tedious, and let go. Soon after The Master passed onto his next realm. Sander decided to hang them….afterwards they found his original plans, it Jil Sander had hung each painting EXACTLY where he had planned them to be. Kismet. Some day, I feel to own between 1-3 of them. Just my obsession! And infatuation with visionaries.
When a woman arrives at the center of her heart, s When a woman arrives at the center of her heart, she conveys peace, compassion, and infinite kindness to all in her space, and on the outside. This is Rosina…. Whom you all know. We speak probably 5-7 times daily about everything from our childhood to the speechless memories of Halston’s eternal cashmeres and the profound effect of Elsa on our lives. This is a photo at Christmas Eve Dinner… so wonderful since she manifests our family, traditions, incredible feasts, and most of all the reminder that joy is the bond. X
Ascension… the eye and proportion capture of Ste Ascension… the eye and proportion capture of Stephen Sills….. let us not even discuss the temper of shades.
I have been speechless over the couture genius of I have been speechless over the couture genius of FERRE Alta Moda since he began it in Rome in 1987. Yes, genius at Valentino, Capucci, Lancetti, but it was FERRE with the net, capturing the culture, history, civilizations with extreme female sensuality. He constantly discovered the Juxtaposition, and that makes for couture.
Like Elsa, he thought for hours or more before he Like Elsa, he thought for hours or more before he considered what he would place on canvas. Thus EACH mark, shape, color, relationship would be in accord with its colleague. And, as with Elsa…. Each curve and biomorphic twist had an effect on our physical and mental/ sensual self presentation.
We are here, first and foremost to prepare, add, a We are here, first and foremost to prepare, add, and honor the culture of our species for the future. With humility, grace, and most of all kindness and compassion. Now please, speak our languages correctly.
After 15 days of The Delta Variant, through psycho After 15 days of The Delta Variant, through psychological and physical introspection and some fear, I have come out on the other side today…. Thank God. Now, ready to continue Couture and continue with my search. But, tonight wishing to be at Caviar Kaspia in Paris with my dearest Dianne and Bob, I had a beloved ( life is so wonderful) , baked potato and Belugia…. A mountain of it. Thank you Angel Von L! X. R
I don’t know, but I’m picking up something abo I don’t know, but I’m picking up something about the divine Mica.
Take this Persimmon’s color as a standard for th Take this Persimmon’s color as a standard for the new neutral. Please recognize that it is not coral, nor is it cinnabar…. But mix all with light, iced lime and you are cooked.
My first post of 22. The Monolith. I have been se My first post of 22. The Monolith. I have been searching for its perfection, reduction, and deeply spiritual- metaphysical- extraterrestrial form and essence in my work, and my life for ever. It’s within. Sometimes we get sidetracked, but stay focused. 22 is meaningless without calm.
Direct, Visionary, Refined, Cultured, Chic, Grace Direct, Visionary, Refined, Cultured, Chic, Grace Personified. She crafted American Vogue for more than a decade giving us not only a point of view in Style, but also A Racy Edge. She treated Haute Couture as the Master Class…. She called it “the pinnacle, the very top”. In American she never could suffer anything but quality, originality, and a calm reduction of glamour. Halston, Beene, and Blass were her touchstones, and through them American Style had enormous strength. When I was first starting in the late 70’s- early 80’s she received me and was intrigued…. She spoke to me of my craft which she said would only grow and mature…. Follow it with diligence and focus. I did and gave, but unfortunately things changed and was / am not acceptable to American Vogue. She maintained her calm elegance and grace even through the arduous years of suffering Parkinson’s disease. Rest, Dear Grace with God and bless you for what you gave to our metier.
Total Biomorphic Obsession in Cut, as achieved by Total Biomorphic Obsession in Cut, as achieved by the genius toileist, Mr. Marco Tudela. The collection, Spring 1985-1986, was totally based on the jewelry and Persona of Elsa. The photo of Lizabeth Garber in a navy Manchuria bugual beaded tunic suggests the need for grace, presence, and quiet, utter chic. This was my first cover in WWD…. 1985….. and I would show the same exact look today, styled with the same Peretti cuffs.
This is much like a tranquilizer for me. The serin This is much like a tranquilizer for me. The serine, contemplative bronze of a Buffalo and Child with gilded base, from the Louis XV moment in culture…. The Kangxi Period… 17th Century. You see, when such an object is presented in a room…. With significant empty space around it….. it allows for higher calm, connection, and awareness. You leave the realm of possessions and enter the realm of peace.
Ralph Rucci…. Does not matter the season, when Ralph Rucci…. Does not matter the season, when I used clear plastic with Taroni silk gros de longres raincoating to give transparency more meaning with the body beneath. I was inside of some deep place making this collection with my team…. And guess what? We showed the collection to Ravel’s Bolero….. Not because of the cadence, but in homage to Mme Gres at 1 rue de la Paix, because she used it as a mystic. By the end, my eyes rolled back in my head.
What is just so damn genius is that her chic and s What is just so damn genius is that her chic and style, as she aged, went full drag queen….. but Uber rich, not drag sad and synthetic. If you remove the bow, the beret, the jewels!!!, TGE EYEBROWS…. You have a female philosopher at the end of her life….. but, did she ever create and live luxury and manifest genius around her. If anyone is even thinking about mentioning nazis, just shut up because she was saving her family, and NONE of us are qualified to judge.
One of my favorite paintings by Mr. Twombly…. Th One of my favorite paintings by Mr. Twombly…. The sea in the evening. Bask.
Elsa, (wearing her speechless rubies) with Her Hig Elsa, (wearing her speechless rubies) with Her Highness, the late Rajmata of Jaipur— The Last Maharani of Raiasthan. Elsa donated through the foundation all of the monies necessary to build the hospital for children with multiple disabilities in Jaipur, about 17 years ago. AND YOU THOUGHT THAT SHE JUST DESIGNED JEWELRY. She came to this plane to help humanity. Thank you Stefano!
When men Finally kiss…. They break through the s When men Finally kiss…. They break through the stigma and discomfort to the normalcy of gay…. Jesus taught this people.
Madame Gonglaves, in ivory Gazaar and pearl embroi Madame Gonglaves, in ivory Gazaar and pearl embroidery ( Lesage), by Hubert de Givenchy. We are really at the highest realm here.
Taste. I know that this photo is somewhat out of f Taste. I know that this photo is somewhat out of focus, but I want all of you to see this… a room of cold, sumptuous luxury, antiquities, and the precision of placing furniture in space that does not really make sense, but after study and the knowledge of Pauline…. It all makes perfect. The floors- highly polished dead black marble, the sofa upholstered in Taroni silk Satin Duchess, a glimpse of a chair upholstered in Scalamandre purple stripe, the two extremely rare Chinese Aubergine Porcelain Jars, his favorite item in the house is the blue and white Japanese Porcelain vase and base belonging to an Emperor—- I do not remember his name, even though I was told dozens of times. And the Greek torso, up high, looking down upon this drama. The room, like a Galanos collection…. Intellectual, inviting, and so sensual… because this was the home of James Galanos in West Hollywood.
Past and Present and Future Uniform and proportion Past and Present and Future Uniform and proportion. Fall / Winter 2020 Haute Couture, Paris, Hotel Ritz. Miza Jacket, Deeda Rajah Tunic, Narrow front seam pants, Peretti Straw Minaudière. Jacket and tunic in Black double faced cashmere with insets of Black satin duchess. Pants in wool/mohair.
The great Dietmar Busse took this photo many years The great Dietmar Busse took this photo many years ago…. Perhaps 13 years ago. As I have no ability to realistically SEE myself, nor to read age on others…. It’s totally confusing because the mind works in another manner…. I have decided to use this as my official portrait for the press and the Fe’de’ration de la Haute Couture Calendar. A “Voltaire Death Mask” seems more befitting.
FERRE on CLEVLAND. Magnificent. FERRE on CLEVLAND. Magnificent.
It is essential that we never forget the utter gen It is essential that we never forget the utter genius of Josephus Thimister.
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