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Ralph Rucci Ralph Rucci Ralph Rucci Ralph Rucci
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Happy Birthday Monsieur Valentino! May you have On Happy Birthday Monsieur Valentino! May you have One Hundred More Years!!!! to bring your extraordinary Self and Spirit to the world! Without question, you are our Emperor! God Bless you and Monsieur Giammetti.  Much Love, Ralph.
The Loud Silence of Taste… as witnessed by Monsi The Loud Silence of Taste… as witnessed by Monsieur Hubert de Givenchy.
Instagram post 18503570359057642 Instagram post 18503570359057642
Fall / Winter 2011– H C— in the salon: Ambassa Fall / Winter 2011– H C— in the salon: Ambassador William Blair , Mrs. Deeda Blair, Mr. Nick Ashford, Ms. Fran Lebowitz, Ms. Whoopi Goldberg, Mr. Michael Taylor, Mr. Andre Leon Talley in silk gazaar Robe de Soir Pina Bausch painting, Mrs. Valerie Simpson. All speaks for itself.
Hello, I want to tell you a story. The extraordina Hello, I want to tell you a story. The extraordinary, very large Frances Bacon is called “Cosmopolitan “. I had the honor and privilege of purchasing it in 1998 from my dear friend Serge Sorokko’s gallery, while in San Francisco doing a trunk show for Neiman Marcus. Business was growing wonderfully and one could say that it was my first grown - up art purchase. I adored it and immediately hung it in my office on Seventh Avenue. In 2002 we moved downtown to Spring Street to an oasis office built for us by breaking through and connecting two buildings with mythical 25 ft ceilings. The office was created by the quiet, yet intense visionary, Michael Gabellini. We existed there for ten years in bliss. While there two exponential things occurred —— we grew to 67 in staff, and the art collection increased to another three Francis Bacon’s and a total of ten artworks by my favorite artist: Cy Twombly— the true magic carpet ride for the mind.
Besides these we also had several Antonio Tapies…. now before you feel that this is becoming a pretentious catalogue of possessions, here is my point.
2007 crept in like a fog, and then 2008, suddenly like the devastation of a tsunami.
The market crashed, the economy crashed, the madoff ponzi scheme destroyed—- all overnight. Immediately clients and stores became empty…. husbands told their wives to stop spending, completely. I had a very close, mutually beneficial, exclusive relationship with Neiman Marcus across the country. The fashion industry was in shock, many people were fired, many businesses closed. My worry was my own— my extended family, my staff of 67, their families, and their lives. What was I going to do? Everyone left one night and all of the lights were off, I walked calmly around my beautiful office sipping an iced vodka, staring at the incredible art that came to life, lit only by the street lights. I sat, and closed my eyes, and like Spencer Tracey in “Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner”, I said—
“I’ll be a son-of-a-bitch”. I locked up and went home.
The next morning I told my assistant to call Christie’s, call Sotheby’s—- get them all out, put everything on auction— sell everything so that i can still continue to pay
It was snowing, perhaps 11:30 in the morning — F It was snowing, perhaps 11:30 in the morning — February, 1978, on the 21st floor of the Olympic Tower. Halston was opening his new Made to Order Collection ( he never used the words Haute Couture, because as he would say: “We are Amerrriiican”) So this was a Spring MTO collection, and he called it The Flying Saucer Collection— Every single look was cut on the bias, with great vigor, thus when the clothes moved, they became afloat by the air. Of course there were the slim, bias coats, silk raincoats, chiffon lames, and double faced clothes, but the shocking highlights were the flying sauces, most shown over the chiffon bodysuits. This collection changed my life, and provoked my direction to cut clothes in new ways, without traditional side seams…. and so on. This particular collection elevated Halston to the ultimate in American fashion, and the salon— his palace, became known as Mount Olympus.
Now, the audience—- Taylor, Liza, Bacall, Duke, Warhol, Jagger, Marisol, Magano, Goddard, Radzwill, Elsa, Diane de Beavue Caron, Kaiser, Andre, Orton, and those quiet, elegant Fifth Avenue women who would order ten looks at a time in the utter silence kitted cashmere worn with Peretti.
But sitting at the top of the runway on oxblood banquettes were the chicest women in NYC: Mrs. Diana Vreeland ( who smeared bright blush on her upper cheek and ears), sitting next to, in deep discussion— my favorite, Mrs. Lily Auchincloss. You know between studying the clients, their grace and posture, the models— ( Bjornson, Ferro, Royer, Chen,Cleveland, Araque, …..) and studying how loud the silence was from the clothes…. I forgot, or could not breathe. Perhaps this is why I have been brain dead with quiet luxury since February, 1978.
Without question the man with the most style, eleg Without question the man with the most style, elegance, intelligence, and most humility in the world. He and his genius business VG, have shown the world how to live, how to give, and what silent royalty simply— is. Lastly, they, most of all, set the bar in our metier.
NORELLED. NORELLED.
This is a Mark Rothko. Interesting, stimulating, i This is a Mark Rothko. Interesting, stimulating, inspiring…. oddly testing our powers of remembrance of his work. But this is a reduction—through elimination that we all strive with in our work…. to arrive at the Essence, and the he knowledge of who we are.
Nothing to do with gender association, but everyth Nothing to do with gender association, but everything to do with personality experimentation…… with great style.
Our Holy, Divine Father will be confirmed into Sai Our Holy, Divine Father will be confirmed into Sainthood— you will see. He strongly attempted so much to bring the Church to today…. women’s rights, all inclusive homosexual rights of normalcy, the poor, the dismissed, those not included for so much ignorant decisions. And, within the next unfolding laps of time…. the miracles, as proof shall become real.
Happy 93rd Birthday H. I think, talk, and thank yo Happy 93rd Birthday H. I think, talk, and thank you everyday of my life for giving me my start, and creating a new history for fashion, style, culture, and society. I feel blessed to be a part of it then, and continuing with all of it now. You gave us timelessness. You, Elsa, Joe, DD, Pat, Karen, Chris, Shirley, Victor, Bill, Nancy, and for me ….. the divine Sassy who first organized my first interview. Most of all thank you for your rigor , discipline, and most of all—- your quietude. x r
Jimmy would like to wish all of you a Happy Easter Jimmy would like to wish all of you a Happy Easter!
Ladies, put a black lace, or black silk organza, o Ladies, put a black lace, or black silk organza, or black silk chiffon, or black silk tulle mantilla on a simple black dress—- perhaps add a crucifix, or Elsa diamonds by the yard, pearls, or a black a moor, and watch time stop and all mouths drop as you enter a reception. Very few of you have this chic and grace, but trust me that once you try this one time, you will not find fashion necessary, as you will have graduated to the Mother Superior level from DUNE. Really, trust me, as i have been dressing divine vessels for 44 + years.
And here is the great woman who discovered me and And here is the great woman who discovered me and my work from my first collection in 1980– Mrs. Eve Orton. She had a long career in fashion, most importantly as the fur and fabrics editor within the wonder staff of Mrs. Diana Vreeland  at the Bazaar. When Vreeland was fired for her extravaganza, Eve left out of solidarity.  She went on to open her own public relations office and help foster the careers of Scott Barrie, Halston, Elsa, Calvin, Blass, Galanos, and her home run was her utter blissful dedication to the greats— Monsieur Valentino and Monsieur Giammetti.
For me, she took me around town, introduced me, dinners at the table at Elaine’s, sometimes on our way, she would say : “I have a feeling that it’s going to be a beeeg nitttee”. That ment, Woody and Mia ( before he married their daughter— I always knew something was up, Sinatra and his exquisite wife Barbara, Stallone—Eve would swoon, Rich Little, Kempner with toad - Zipkin, H holding court with staff, a few drag queens, and Mrs. Allie Kaiser wearing — the first time that I saw a petrol silk faille raincoat lined with rare taupe Russian Sable, The divine Lily Auchinclos i wrapped in yards of H black cashmere, and the sure-fired home run was the cracked- Jack Daniels laughter of Queen Elizabeth Taylor. And of course , the representation of the literary world: Mailer, Talese, and Eberstadt. I was a very young man and began to absorb and learn how to see through so much of postering and posing.
Even though there was much vodka Eve was a total thoroughbred. Also, I came to know the very sensitive side of Elaine Kauffman, I even made her a loden green cape lined in mink— light weight female skins. As I was building the business and struggling, Elaine would often sit with us and one night she told me—“You never have to worry about a meal, you come here.” So, my dearest Eve was a soul mate, and in her declining years, I attempted to maintain the joy in her life, and even found her when she took her life. But, as superficial as this may sound, Eve “taught@me the essential importance of the color chocolate brown.”
Mrs. Wrightsman’s hand with a dangling emerald f Mrs. Wrightsman’s hand with a dangling emerald from the great visionary, JAR.
I can still remember walking uptown on Madison Ave I can still remember walking uptown on Madison Avenue, in the early 70’s to 33 East 68th Street…… to the temple. Nothing existed on Madison Avenue then, except Julio Espada’s boutique on the corner of 72nd Street. The Temple indulged the senses with miles of knitted cashmere in every color, chalk ultrasuede, vapors of his silk chiffon, slink-bias hammered satins, Bobby Breaslu basket ball bags, liquid silver and ivory jewelry from Elsa. Sometimes it was completely reaching the zenith, especially when you turned and was suddenly confronted with Paley, Vreeland, of pass-out: Sylvana Magano. I am still in another realm when I remember.
Liquid —White double faced cashmere (Colombo) ja Liquid —White double faced cashmere (Colombo) jacket— pulled together with biomorphic rigor, in honor of both Peretti and the facades of Syrian Temples—-floating on the mist of Mainbocher gray flannel.
I cannot explain how I received this, but it is a I cannot explain how I received this, but it is a Relic to me. It is a creased swatch of crisp Vanilla Silk Honan that was made into a Rajah coat and pants— by Cristobal Balenciaga, for Baroness Pauline de Rothschild, AND she was buried in this outfit. Relic.
SEE PREVIOUS POST… THE GENIUS VISION OF CY TWOMB SEE PREVIOUS POST… THE GENIUS VISION OF CY TWOMBLY!
I AM IN AWE AND UTTER DISGUST REGARDING THIS PHILI I AM IN AWE AND UTTER DISGUST REGARDING THIS PHILISTINE. HOW WILL PEOPLE BE ABLE TO APPRECIATE FRANCES BACON AND CY TWOMBLY…. AND SUCH!
Frances Bacon…. see next post Frances Bacon…. see next post
And now we arrive…. Fall / Winter 2007… Haute And now we arrive…. Fall / Winter 2007… Haute Couture. This was the most expensive design that I have ever developed in the couture. A dress and 7/8 coat in 109 yards of brown silk chiffon (Taroni). They are both hand fluted— think Mme Gres, not pleated, fluted by hand with millions of stitches between the pleats. Also, hidden real gray fresh water pearl embroidered inside the pleats. Embroidery by the great house of Vermont. Utterly silent.  Palais de Tokyo, Paris.
Fall / Winter 2007— WEIGHTLESSNESS— A dress of Fall / Winter 2007— WEIGHTLESSNESS— A dress of nothingness, 1.) a layer of black silk chiffon against the body, the next layer 2.) a layer of pave’ black micro sequins, and the outside layer are bands of burnt black ostrich feathers from the atelier of Le Marie overseen by the genius and passion of Eric. Thus the dress floats in the air— a dizzying display of haute seduction and centuries of tapping into the essence of Haute Couture— GRACE.  Palais de Tokyo, Paris.
Fall / Winter 2007 Haute Couture. Dry Taupe Alliga Fall / Winter 2007 Haute Couture. Dry Taupe Alligator mixed with Cinnabar and Dry Taupe Silk Satin Brocade .. a dress, a suggestion of a jacket with just two sleeves. The magnificence of Infanta Allure in an important short dress. Palais de Tokyo’s, Paris.
One of my all time favorites— Fall / Winter 2007 One of my all time favorites— Fall / Winter 2007 Haute Couture : A very simple - straight shirt dress— Strict - in the Galanos I’ll get even with you length”…. right above the ankle— ultimate seduction.  The cloth is a painting of a Japanese screen showing the Tales of  Genghi on silk organza: screened by Ruffocoli. The entire dress is covered with Black Pave’ Micro Cut Bugal Beads, but left un- beaded so that you see the calligraphy in relief. This message is then painted on the model’s skin so that it can be read clearly. The embroidery made by the very magnificent firm of Ryjunian Kahn. Palais de Tokyo, Paris.
Fall / Winter Haute Couture 2007– Again, a paint Fall / Winter Haute Couture 2007– Again, a painting of mine in mixed media screened on both Silk Gazaar ( Taroni ) and Double faced Cashmere (Colombo), by Ruffocoli.
Please notice the the cashmere “Panel” coat is lined in the Gazaar, and all are positioned so that the print matches— it Kisses it self inside and out. The “Panel” coat is named such as it has open side seams , open center back seam, and open front, thus like sail panels it is kinetic— it moves and has the grace of seduction. Palais de Tokyo, Paris .
Fall / Winter 2007 Haute Couture— A painting of Fall / Winter 2007 Haute Couture— A painting of mine in multi media— acrylic, sand, gold dust, script, gravel, cheese cloth, and masking tape—- some carnelian stones. All screened on Silk Gazaar by Ruffocoli. A jacket and long dress with a kabuki flavor—- on the great Collette. Palais de Tokyo, Paris.
Fall / Winter Haute Couture 2007: Bias tattered la Fall / Winter Haute Couture 2007: Bias tattered layers of tulle with burnt ostrich feathers beneath each layer of tulle. Dry Chestnut color silk tulle. Palais de Tokyo.
It is rare yet often possible that you must remain It is rare yet often possible that you must remain like stone…. at least to the outside looking in. Inside you are somewhat incapable of vibrating at your full capacity,  Outside you attempt to understand the Why you are A Fortune in Men’s Eyes….. not  as you were as a young man when sensuality driven, but as an elder that understands more of your transition into Spirit.
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