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Happy Easter Elsa Buddy! At her desk in the PH on Happy Easter Elsa Buddy! At her desk in the PH on East 55th Street, wearing the famous black velvet bunny ears by H. Miss you Bunny Buddy!
Here she is, captured in my favorite photograph… Here she is, captured in my favorite photograph… The Great Fashion Editor, Rae Crespin. She just passed away last week , one week after her 100th birthday! This photo is so special as Rae insisted I take, shown here, the Paul Rudolf triplex at 25 Beekman. Rae lived downstairs in an equally wonderous Clockwork Orange duplex. Here Rae sits on the banquette on the first level looking up to the second and third level— as I am looking down at she demanding that I take the apartment because it would change my life! And she was right, but we went into Covid lockdown, and life change, but it was not in the cards for me. But, the lady had great vision. Bless John Calcagno for making sure that she was constantly taken care. Marilyn Kirschner just wrote an exquisite article on Rae in her-“Look On Line” column. Another legend has left us!
….. how blessed we are….. Happy Easter my frie ….. how blessed we are….. Happy Easter my friends. x r
July, 2019…. My return to Paris and the Couture July, 2019…. My return to Paris and the Couture after twelve years, (twelve horrifying years). Here the divine angel- Ms. Anna Cleveland showing my favorite exit— pure, clean flou in The Ritz garden. All film, Polaroids, and shots by the intense Maripol. The day of the defile’ and the entire week contained purification that only occurs with one’s deliverance of haute couture.
The quintessential essence of beauty and grace and The quintessential essence of beauty and grace and chilling other worldly carriage in a woman…. the model who transported the “suggestion” of fashion: Ms. Shirley Ferro. I have been hypnotized by her for decades!
Breath taking, inspiring, and Deeply based in styl Breath taking, inspiring, and Deeply based in style, proportion, craftsmanship, and mind boggling chic…. Joe Eula’s watercolors of Halston designs. I was there and it changed my life.
For me, the entire fashion season came together an For me, the entire fashion season came together and crystallized at the great Haider Ackerman collection, when the monumental Giselle appeared. I worked with her for many years, BUT the PATHOS that she conveyed was chilling, as well as the magnificence of the collection.
I have always been transfixed by Sigmund Freud’s I have always been transfixed by Sigmund Freud’s desk….. notice…. facing him are Egyptian, Roman, Mesopotamia , Jades, Onyx, and Alabaster Antiquities…..imagine as he hypothesized about the brain and its relationship to the unconscious he was feed by the centuries of civilizations. Now, I feel this deeply for two reasons—- first I spent 17 years in Freudian Psychoanalysis and know that you have to draw from past lives to comprehend this life. And, I have collected Greek, Egyptian, Roman, Khmer, Han, and Javanese statuary and placed them next to my head in my bedroom to allow communication and to ward off those who cannot cross over….. again: Sanctuary.
How I loved to hide and listen to Andre and Rosina How I loved to hide and listen to Andre and Rosina rip into a topic….. they would Scream with Naji, usually over his latest stories regarding— as Andre would say: She who will not be named or the editor who would barbecue in the nude. I could hear them laughing and howling and would march out to the front of the salon to tell them to Behave!….. Sure….. As he would tell me to go to my office! and act like a designer… God do we miss him!
For a change…. this year on November 3, I receiv For a change…. this year on November 3, I received a deeply moving honor from Steven Kolb, Thom Browne, and the CFDA board as I was presented with the Lifetime Achievement Award. I had just celebrated my 45th year in business on October 15th. I was so moved and emotional receiving a very powerful and long standing ovation from the audience, especially since I was with my family: Rosina Rucci, Tatiana Sorokko, Paul Podlucky, my divine, inspirational assistant Jacek Ratkowski, and as you can see carrying Elsa with me in the form of one of her hand made- gold dipped straw minaudières. And brother, was she there! Thank you Thom and Steven.
Elsa’s closet in Sant Marti Vell stuffed with my Elsa’s closet in Sant Marti Vell stuffed with my clothes…… Her belts, and Bobby Breaslu bags.
Downstairs- Barbara Dente Nautilus staircase leadi Downstairs- Barbara Dente Nautilus staircase leading to her bed, and through the doorway to her milk glass bath.
Back to “rooms”…. here one of the most hypno Back to “rooms”…. here one of the most hypnotic, calm, other worldly homes that I have ever experienced. The duplex penthouse on 12th Street & Eighth Avenue belonging to one of the most visionary women that I have ever known— Ms Barbara Dente. Indeed, she was a total visionary as a stylist — especially her work with Richard Avedon ( or as Mrs. Vreeland called him: Aberdeen. Barbara then formed a public relations firm and also art direction with her partner, Donna Christina. I had the extreme pleasure of having them represent me. Honestly, we laughed constantly! But, her home—- Utter Distillation of Pure Essence. Stark, matte white poured concrete walls ending both top and bottom perhaps 1 1/2” from ceiling and floor to allow the glow of the light source. On the first — this level: a table, Klismos chairs, a banquette, an ottoman, and a roll top mat to place on the top of the staircase…. some photos leaning against the walls, And the ever present Vanda Orchid on the table. The doorway on the right leads into the large kitchen…. and what I will never forget are the drawers lined with black velvet holding her utterly plain Van Day Truex sterling flatware from Tiffany to be used Daily! Downstairs: her floating bed, her milk glass bath, and her enormous closet Filked with nothing but black clothes, black shoes, and black Hermes Birkins, Bolides, Kelly’s, and Plumes. I miss her rigorous discipline and ultra light year style so very much. It is public knowledge that during Covid lock up the world became so horrifying for them that she and Donna took their lives, on their own terms. But, wow——look at this vessel as home!
At least twice daily do I check in with my sister, At least twice daily do I check in with my sister, Rosina….. I have all of my life. I think that it is rare for brothers to have sisters who lift, promote, guide, and consistently remind us of who we are and remain on a thankful, humble course. Also, and I suppose most importantly, to protect us so that we have the complete rite de passage in life. But, in my case, Rosina has not only graced me with all of this, but has maintained the safety of the business… as Deeda Blair has always said…”Rosina is correct”, and as Cathy Horyn has always said: “Everyone loves Her”. Today, with her milestone birthday, I wish one major wish… for Rose to live many years past me, because life without my divine sister would be impossible. Here she is with her partner, Adel in their beloved Rome having gelato! xxxr
I have lived in my small sanctuary for almost 30 y I have lived in my small sanctuary for almost 30 years because of my utterly peaceful terrace where I welcome spiritual activity and healing. Because I have always made — for many years both a rtw and an hc collection during the summer, I have always worked, and thus vacations were impossible, and not particularly considered, because this has been my oasis— my microcosm within the macrocosm.
Upstairs at the STEINITZ Gallery in Paris, one of Upstairs at the STEINITZ Gallery in Paris, one of my favorite places in the world, at 6 rue Royale. Each room is an Event, a manifestation of the owner’s vision, knowledge, and mind- Mr. Benjamin Steinitz. The “bones” of the space were created by the great Joseph Graf…notice the puce velvet upholstered walls, which I fixate on constantly. Each curve, each recession perfectly followed as if couture, and Graf is the couturier of interiors. But then Benjamin, like a sorcerer, selects objects, museum quality furniture, or Beyond museums, simply items of such magnificent individuality and originality that they speak of complete uniqueness. Steinitz is the epicenter of artistic history collapsing within itself—— And we get to experience it!
Break: two of the most chic words in the world: Is Break: two of the most chic words in the world: Isabelle Eberstadt, daughter of Ogden Nash, here in full Orange Paper Silk Taffeta by Mme. Gres. I wish that I could have dressed her. She and her husband, Frederick were complete originals in the New York scene in the 60’s and 70’s.
An actual panel of CORK from the bedroom wall of t An actual panel of CORK from the bedroom wall of the part- human / part- alien, Complete Visionary Genius: Monsieur Marcel Proust. You see his walls were padded with Cork to insulate himself for complete silence and a total lack of disturbance, while he was creating is historic narrative, where one sentence runs two pages: “Remembrance of Things Past”, “à la Recherche du Temps Perdu”. The Massive commentary on society, social and culture, behavior— both high and depraved. In our lifetime we had our own encyclopedia of the same by the great Truman Capote, in his unfinished, astonishing— “Answered Prayers”. Proust was prolific, but needed this cork encased enclave to protect his sanity, creativity, and homosexuality. I have deeply studied Proust, but that is not important, since everyone has…. but I have taken one event in Proust’s life and used it in my own. Once Proust was asked for lunch by a nobel man…. Proust responded politely that he was not available on that date. The gentleman ran into him shortly after and asked him for lunch, and Proust politely declined— again. On the THIRD attempt, the man invited Proust to lunch One Year Ahead…..One Year Ahead….. Proust calmly replied that he would be unable to lunch on that date, SINCE HE WOULD BE LUNCHING AT THE RITZ—- A L O N E . (the need for cork)
They are pure genius, brilliant cultural research They are pure genius, brilliant cultural research professors, visionaries who take You taste, likes, desires…. mix with associated cultures, periods, countries and styles AND DISTILL what has always been destined for you…. the protégée of the Master, Lorenzo Mongiardino— my exquisite friends, Roberto Peregalli and Laura Rimini, their firm- Studio Peregalli. I have been seduced my their style, visions, and projects when I discovered them in 1998. I decided to call upon them while I was in Milan for a work trip, and we have been friends— whom inspire me ever since. Now here is the second floor drawing room that they created for Monsieur Pierre Berge…… An Avalanche of luxury, wonder, and such serious juxtaposition…. the damask, the upholstery in silk velvet, and how it is handled, the paintings, the Leopard Bevalaqua silk velvet stool……imagine people in interaction within this room….. Scene from “The Leopard”?— No….. the zenith where culture unfolds to a new evolution of culture. love You Two! xr
It does not matter that the this deep green silk v It does not matter that the this deep green silk velvet room was filled with All museum quality art, furniture, Boulle, carpets, Faberge, lacquer, astonishing eighteenth century, leather topped Bureau Plat, and utterly comfortable, small marble topped Maison Meilure tray tables to place your drink. This was the extraordinary, main drawing room of Hubert de Givenchy and Phillippe Venet. Situated on the rue Grenelle, with the wonderful world hosts, John and Susan Gutfreund upstairs… all somewhat of a Wizard of Oz experience. Sometimes I would stop in down stairs for a drink before going upstairs for dinner—- dazzling. So, yes this is a favorite room, but I also include this photo because it is taken by me the last time that I was there for dinner with Hubert and Philippe, and Beatrice. Also, last week Monsieur de Givenchy would have turned 90…. and I loved him for all that he did for me, while placing his hand on my shoulder.
This was Master Willian Baldwin’s most influenti This was Master Willian Baldwin’s most influential room…. you probably know since he gave it a chapter in “Billy Baldwin Remembers”. The main drawing room of Mrs. Walter Farell in Oyster Bay. Chocolate lacquered walls inlayed with lacquered Chinoiserie panels, cinnamon and apricot silk duchess upholstery, the lacquered side cabinets— encoignures, and what has astonished me so far as to replicate are the 17 th Century Japanese Leather Saddle Bags — USED AS SMALL CARPETS in front of the sofa. Really, this room— if we want to be honest, is beyond Pauline!
The great Rose Tarlow who works with such enormous The great Rose Tarlow who works with such enormous restraint, but allows us to desire the cozy home comfort that she carves into a room. Here in Beverly Hills, her main drawing room with very ethereal, long vines hanging into this room from the ceiling. Soft tendrils, with a very feminine feeling, like Rose. The furniture is eclectic, highly polished wood with great stature. Now, unexpected curiosities exist all over the place, which are wonders. One evening I was in LA giving a trunk show at the beloved Neiman Marcus. Rose was giving a small dinner, and invited me. On my way over I picked up our National Living Treasure, Jimmy Galanos. During cocktails everyone was milling and Rose was holding hypnotic court. Jimmy looked down into this bowl and was a bit shocked… in his typical manner, with polka dot pocket scarf in impeccable placement he whispered to me: “Now what the hell is this supposed to represent?” A question my mother always asked when she had absolutely no reference - at all. It was a perfectly hand carved, articulated Ivory— life size lobster hiding in the wooden bowl….. “Jimmy it’s a lobster.” “Well this is the most ridiculous thing that I have ever seen!” The genius of Rose Tarlow, I think, takes great awareness of distillation, to arrive at a level of luxury and suggestion that is invisible. Adore you Rose!
Killer…. I have been hypnotized by elements of t Killer…. I have been hypnotized by elements of this room since I saw the photo in the early 70’s in his book: “Billy Baldwin Remembers”. Immediately read the chapter: “ Thorns in My Crown”— very Capote. This is the dining room of Mrs Joules Bache Miller, aka: Kitty Miller, at 550 Park Avenue. Remember in the drawing room hung Goya’s “The Red Boy”. Now this room’s sexiness and extreme elegance comes from the lacquered raspberry walls, the Bessarabian carpet, and the Coromandel screen…. loose the chairs and the Porthault table cloth. I imagine that dining in this room would have been life enhancing. Little did I imagine that I would be sitting in this room two decades later. Contessa Donina Cicogna purchased the apartment and decorated it with magnificent manor born Italian taste….- huge bronze Manzu held forth in the drawing room with lemon silk damask walls and ivory silk faille sofas with Chinoiserie embroidered pillows. The entry way was entirely mirrored, even the ceiling with extraordinary Eighteenth Century Gold Piedmontese brackets— small- perhaps 20– each one holding Chinese Eighteenth Century small Stacked Tomatoes!!!! And allowing one a distinct element of vertigo were the floors— sparkling— made from black marble.Imagine years later I would ferret three sets of Chinese tomatoes at auctions in Paris…obsessed. I digress. Donina decided that she wanted to join the ranks of Jacqueline de R, Galatizne, Herrera, and to have a collection of women’s apparel. I was the ghost designer and we made plans in NY, but it was made in Milan. Now here is the relation between the Kitty M and Donina dining room. One night Donina invited me for dinner, just the two of us. The room had two tables for guests, and since we were just two, we sat in the middle of the room to have a perfect vista. All four walls were not flat, they were constructed in… and out… in and out… like mammouth screens. The walls had a light coral- cinnabar multi coats of lacquer, but the jaw dropping element is that they were all hand painted with dull gold paint in Chinese Calligraphy. Probably the greatest dining room ever. Andre, her chef served Veal Osso Buco…. but that’s another story.
The somber reality of Pauline de Rothschild’s di The somber reality of Pauline de Rothschild’s dining room in London. Pauline was relentless with John Fowler’s painters until they finally discovered the color that she wanted for the walls—- to look like the Inside of an Hermes Umbrella! Just one reason to worship P de R. Also notice the rush matting and the small, bias silk kerchiefs at the throat of each carafe’. I tried this for years, and it does not work!
A corner of Mrs. Blair’s dining room/ drawing ro A corner of Mrs. Blair’s dining room/ drawing room with that very haunted mixture of vapor like colors of French Eighteenth Century iced blue- gray and museum quality furniture speaking to one another in asymmetrical placement. As if in relief, the french knotted embroidery on the stool,by the great Lesage. A definitive room of enormous restraint.
A miraculous banquette with a mixture of fabricati A miraculous banquette with a mixture of fabrications from the great Peter Marino.
The hallway going to the terrace and my drawing ro The hallway going to the terrace and my drawing room. Sanctuary.
Elsa Peretti’s second apartment that she took fr Elsa Peretti’s second apartment that she took from H when he moved into 101. A PH, white washed by the great Vincente Woolf. Notice the bleached cow skull with all of the hallows filled with liquid nitrogen sterling silver! But, the true shock of Elsa’s point of view was— the first time that I went over she had one of her huge crystal bowls, with thumb indentation in the center of the bleached street skid coffee table, but I had a complete shock to the brain. The bowl was empty, but in the center was a rather large Lobster Claw. The claw was open and holding a very flawless 25 ct Golconda Diamond. So, just imagine the conversation and behavior when everyone became high.
John Gutfreund’s study at 834 Fifth Avenue desig John Gutfreund’s study at 834 Fifth Avenue designed by Susan G and Henri Samuel. Notice the tooled leather panels on the walls as discovered by Givenchy. Sometimes I would slip into this room with a friend while cocktails were served and hide.
HRH Princess Fyral’s home in London as decorated HRH Princess Fyral’s home in London as decorated by the master— Lorenzo Mongiardino. I have obsessed with@the upholstery for decades…… Imagine— Conceive the concept of taking silk damask and Quilting it!!!!!!! And then using this puckered, quilted fabric to upholster furniture….. ADD personalities will understand.
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