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Two most gracious and extraordinary women who assi Two most gracious and extraordinary women who assisted enormously in my transition from a designer within to a man who happens to attempt to apply artistic technique to my clients…since they had to explain it in journalism. Firstly, on the left the magnificent Etta Frioro who left this plane three weeks ago. A woman of kind, insightful, and graciously elegant journalistic position. She gave the Fairchild Publications a, shall we say a polish and grace. I adored her and her long time companion. They quietly brought the Comtesse Jacqueline de Ribes into my life, quietly….. without the “expected” fashion release. The other woman sitting next to Etta is the deeply investigative and original Ms . Bobbie Queen, my editor at WWD for many decades. Still here giving the profession an edge, a spark, and a great determination of separating the banal from the chilling. At times I argued with her, but she taught me the essential necessity of one voice in self and work…. Adore them both and have been feeling the great loss of Etta from our dimension.
The Dauphin taking sun before lunch and a beauty s The Dauphin taking sun before lunch and a beauty shower, on his new favorite chaise from his beloved best friend Jacek.
speechless speechless
they can Never be us… remember. they can Never be us… remember.
Back to Normal? We introduced the “Suspension “ Technique. Art work conceived by Larisa Rizhova, toile by the great Christine von Aesch. Haute Couture, Fall / Winter 2008…. I think. Taroni Parrot Green Double Faced Satin Duchess. The Jacket, Weskit, and Skirt— all individual pieces that are each had finished, and then “Worm Stitched” together. The jacket is the hen lined in Bargauzine Russian Sable. One of the greatest accompaniments that our atelier ever achieved. Besides the sample, two repeats were ordered. I send much love to those two cherished ladies!
NOW HEAR THIS…. THIS ITEM OF ELSA’S GENIUS ESC NOW HEAR THIS…. THIS ITEM OF ELSA’S GENIUS ESCAPED ME. IT IS A ROCK CRYSTAL SALT AND PEPPER CELL WITH ONE CORAL SPOON AND ONE BLACK JADE SPOON…. Please address my insanity and obsession, and if anyone has this relic….. I will pay anything! DM ME, yes, this is a psychiatric plea! Now you know me and my attachment to Elsa.
And finally here we have the Rose…. in the phone And finally here we have the Rose…. in the phone for a change, in her beloved town of Anzio, one hour outside of Rome, one the sea. Finally living a life of peace, with her partner Adel…. after taking care of everyone, now herself…. Happy Mother’s Day Angel! xr
Happy Mother’s Day My Dear Sister— Easter, 196 Happy Mother’s Day My Dear Sister— Easter, 1960. From left- Me in the plaid jacket that I never removed ( notice ears ),my cousin, Neil, My handsome father, Emanuel (32 here), holding my cousin’s dog— Jigger, Rosina sitting on my father’s knee in embroidered Swiss lace and satin faced cotton, with a totally Beverly Hillbillies hat, and my cousin John who just decided to leave the plane last week.
Happy Mother’s Day to my extraordinary, loving, Happy Mother’s Day to my extraordinary, loving, deeply compassionate and Mother of renown dimensions. Here with her son, Luca on the evening in 2005 of my retrospective at The Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology. She never set laws, she merely suggested and what occurred was a wonderous personality and brilliance in Luca. Mother and Son grew up in Rome, and Rosina raised her son alone, with the utmost Italian humility, faith, and deep value of equality towards all… as only my sister has constantly conducts herself. I, especially now as we have aged use Rosina as a measure of perfection.xxx
Happy Birthday Angel! You left a massive emptiness Happy Birthday Angel! You left a massive emptiness in the world, but with your work, we remember and are continually inspired. But, most importantly, how you lived your life with one major objective…. to give and help others. especially your beloved Koala Bears. All of us speak of you constantly and can imagine the birthday party tonight. What are you receiving guests wearing? xxx. r
My Angel, Elise Crombez… whom I always called “Baby Pauline”, because I adored her and she gave the clothes a major twist of de Rothschild, but edge since she would arrive for her fittings in breath taking Helmut Lang future vision. Here in a degrade’ suspension jacket and skirt and scarf in colors of Ivory, Beige, Oyster, and Taupe Double Faced Cashmere. Once the silhouette and fit are established, then the artwork is drawn, then allof the parts are separated and seam allowance is added to the new pattern pieces…. then all of the parts are Individually double faced, and each part is hand lined with silk charmeuse. Then each mosaic is placed on a template and hand worm stitched so that you have a garment of complete kinetic transparency and weightlessness. I have never ceased using this technique because it is timeless and is screaming with couture quietude. Fall / Winter 2009 Haute Couture. Please note… what an out of this world atelier I was honored to have.
White Double Faced Wool Crepe with Horizontal and White Double Faced Wool Crepe with Horizontal and Vertical insets of Tulle. When a Blazer / Jacket turns into a moveable body suit…. an evolution from the 1954 Chanel Cardigan. My search for lightness was always through hand workmanship and transparencies. This from Spring Ready to Wear 2013.
More Pomodoro…. Ivory Double Faced Wool Crepe on More Pomodoro…. Ivory Double Faced Wool Crepe on Tulle…. each fragmentation individually double faced and then suspended on a tulle base— WEIGHTLESSNESS….. by hand to show the delicious soft fragmentation of couture possibilities.
Spring 2002 Haute Couture, White Double Faced Wool Spring 2002 Haute Couture, White Double Faced Wool/Silk from Madame Gandini… This season I elongated all of her backs of jackets, coats, raincoats, dresses, and gowns….. and LOOPED them all back on themselves to form a poetic hydrodynamic three dimensional garment with power, elegance, and movement. I was so empowered by all of the exits and the entire collection was in white, ivory, and taupe. There were embroideries, but the most striking was a Lesage embroidered Twin Set in STRAW AND WOOD BEADS on the Divine Christina Kruse. The collection of all white / ivory was presented within the Cinnabar Marble halls of the Romanian Embassy. After the defile’ Lee R whispered words that I still carry in my heart: “It no longer matters what you will show, because what you have shown defines you.” Unfortunately WWD did not approve of the loop back technique, even though I have always deeply respected the journalist.
The Legend and Pillar of Strength, Carmen in an Iv The Legend and Pillar of Strength, Carmen in an Ivory Double Faced Wool Crepe and Tulle based on a two sculptures by Arnoldo Pomodoro in the home of Hubert de Givenchy…. one in the entry way on a console, the other on the terrace surrounded by rocks. I made this entire collection around Pomodoro…..the challenge mirrored my soul being in great, enormous duress from financial pressure when the floor fell from all of us in 2008….remember? I had 67 employees and did not reduce salary or allow anyone to leave. I just sold All of the Frances Bacons (3), the Cy Twomblys (11), and Tapies (5), that were purchased when we were flying high….. remember, no sorrow…. all is given to us to enjoy, and eventually all must go back into the world to enjoy!
An Ivory Suede one layer coat with small to large An Ivory Suede one layer coat with small to large circles stamped from the surface, so that the negative space is as important as the positive space. Spring Haute Couture 2009.
Spring 2004 Haute Couture. A blouse entirely hand Spring 2004 Haute Couture. A blouse entirely hand embroidered with fresh water pearls to suggest bones and nerves. I like pearls. Shown at an hotel particular on the Ave Foch. The collection was shown to the soundtrack of Angels In America by Thomas Newman. I think one of my three best collections.
If you are going to visit Paris now or during the If you are going to visit Paris now or during the Summer. There is a very lovely exhibit to visit. It will continue until July 12th, which will be the end of Fall / Winter 2096-7 Haute Couture. It is now mounted at the Palais Galeria. The exhibit is based on the evolution of 18th Century fashion and technique on contemporary haute couture. It even references two extraordinary occurrences: 1.) Sophia Coppola’s masterful depiction of the 18th Century court of Marie Antoinette, and 2.) Queen Madonna’s performance of Vogue in 18th Century Farthingales. I am very honored to be included in this exhibit with my “Watteau Infanta” in Black Gazaar, Satin Duchess, and Velvet dimensions. As the only American representing Couture, both my pride, history, and humility makes his dress a hallmark of my career. This Infanta was from the Fall / Winter 2019- 2020 Haute Couture Collection.
Happy 94th Birthday H. Thank you for my start, all Happy 94th Birthday H. Thank you for my start, all that you taught me, and the enormity that you brought to our metier and culture.
This is a quilted Chestnut Ski Parka in Silk Satin This is a quilted Chestnut Ski Parka in Silk Satin Damask shown in my Fall / Winter 2007 RTW- Haute Couture Collection in Paris at an 17th Century Monastery……what an evening. The ceilings were 30 ft high and the music— Thomas Newman allowed the audience to be lifted to another realm—- always my intention. While we were in hair and makeup, my dear friend and mentor, Hubert de Givenchy, took a walk with me on the rainy wet stone walk way around the abby. I was still smoking then, so as I was staring down looking at my handsome Lobb shoes and nicotine gaze, Hubert—- and his Goliath height placed his hand on my shoulder and in his very soft inflection told me : Not to worry, not to over think it, always Edit….. to reduce tithe essence. He had not seen the full collection yet. Then he told me the most essential life long message of my career….. “You are one of us”. I remained silent, because this was a life shattering moment, so we went inside, and I made sure that he, Monsieur Venet, and Mrs. Blair were seated comfortably, and I began the presentation, with the first exit being a braided black horse hair slit and shawl morphing into Gandini Black DF wool silk, and a pintucked circular under pinning in Colombo Silk / Cashmere Jersey. The ceiling came down and I took benediction. Now This Chestnut Silk Satin Damask is quilted on the other side with Cafe’ Heavy silk Organza……… so that you can see that all of the feathers that gave the quilting life were Multi- Colored and Magical! It was purchased by my friend, and great collector, Susan Gutfreund.
Simply makes life have uplifting inspiration, beca Simply makes life have uplifting inspiration, because my love for her never exceeded my mind’s extraordinary inspiration from her.
I had to delete the previous picture in this spot. I had to delete the previous picture in this spot. If you do not remember, it was someone depicting himself as Jesus. The photo that I have now posted is a very holy, visionary, humble, and deeply kind man walking amongst us. Essentially a teacher and an artist. His name is Julio Espada. He is going to be embarrassed, but for all of those that know him… know that he is an Angel!
Happy Easter Elsa Buddy! At her desk in the PH on Happy Easter Elsa Buddy! At her desk in the PH on East 55th Street, wearing the famous black velvet bunny ears by H. Miss you Bunny Buddy!
Here she is, captured in my favorite photograph… Here she is, captured in my favorite photograph… The Great Fashion Editor, Rae Crespin. She just passed away last week , one week after her 100th birthday! This photo is so special as Rae insisted I take, shown here, the Paul Rudolf triplex at 25 Beekman. Rae lived downstairs in an equally wonderous Clockwork Orange duplex. Here Rae sits on the banquette on the first level looking up to the second and third level— as I am looking down at she demanding that I take the apartment because it would change my life! And she was right, but we went into Covid lockdown, and life change, but it was not in the cards for me. But, the lady had great vision. Bless John Calcagno for making sure that she was constantly taken care. Marilyn Kirschner just wrote an exquisite article on Rae in her-“Look On Line” column. Another legend has left us!
….. how blessed we are….. Happy Easter my frie ….. how blessed we are….. Happy Easter my friends. x r
July, 2019…. My return to Paris and the Couture July, 2019…. My return to Paris and the Couture after twelve years, (twelve horrifying years). Here the divine angel- Ms. Anna Cleveland showing my favorite exit— pure, clean flou in The Ritz garden. All film, Polaroids, and shots by the intense Maripol. The day of the defile’ and the entire week contained purification that only occurs with one’s deliverance of haute couture.
The quintessential essence of beauty and grace and The quintessential essence of beauty and grace and chilling other worldly carriage in a woman…. the model who transported the “suggestion” of fashion: Ms. Shirley Ferro. I have been hypnotized by her for decades!
Breath taking, inspiring, and Deeply based in styl Breath taking, inspiring, and Deeply based in style, proportion, craftsmanship, and mind boggling chic…. Joe Eula’s watercolors of Halston designs. I was there and it changed my life.
For me, the entire fashion season came together an For me, the entire fashion season came together and crystallized at the great Haider Ackerman collection, when the monumental Giselle appeared. I worked with her for many years, BUT the PATHOS that she conveyed was chilling, as well as the magnificence of the collection.
I have always been transfixed by Sigmund Freud’s I have always been transfixed by Sigmund Freud’s desk….. notice…. facing him are Egyptian, Roman, Mesopotamia , Jades, Onyx, and Alabaster Antiquities…..imagine as he hypothesized about the brain and its relationship to the unconscious he was feed by the centuries of civilizations. Now, I feel this deeply for two reasons—- first I spent 17 years in Freudian Psychoanalysis and know that you have to draw from past lives to comprehend this life. And, I have collected Greek, Egyptian, Roman, Khmer, Han, and Javanese statuary and placed them next to my head in my bedroom to allow communication and to ward off those who cannot cross over….. again: Sanctuary.
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